🗺Visiting Palenque ruins without a guide, couldn’t be any easier. Simply, print our free map along with our walking directions, and follow along with our self-guided tour!
So frankly said… Palenque ruins easily makes it into our top three archaeological sites in Mexico. And we’ve seen a few! For reference, Chichen Itza, Ek’ Balam, Yaxchilán & Oxtankah are just a few other Maya ruin sites that we’ve visited.
But what sets Palenque ruins apart from other Maya ruins of Mexico? Well, the ruins are spectacular, BUT this combined with the lush jungle backdrop, on the edge of the Lacandon rain forest elevates its ranking!
In addition, Palenque ruins are super tranquil due to having significantly less visitors. And the walk among impressive temples, through jungle paths, waterfalls and dense rain forest will leave you in awe.
Our post shares everything you need to know, including a quick self-guided tour, with map! This allows you to visit the Palenque ruins without a tour and guide. So it’s hassle free and at the same time saves you some money. We also explain how to get to Palenque ruins, the entrance procedure and costs involved.
So with that said, it’s time to get cracking! Read below, then…
Step 1️⃣ – print map or download it to your phone (no strings attached)
Step 2️⃣ – visit Palenque Ruins without a guide!
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Palenque Ruins – The History!
The Palenque ruins are located along the Usumacinta River basin, at the intersection of the coastal plains and the mountains. As such, historically speaking these rich agricultural lands became a significant Maya trading point.
Historical references differ slightly, but most tend to show that Palenque originated around 100 BC and continued through to AD 900. It most likely began as a small farming community, later growing into a city and the capital of the B’aakal Kingdom between AD 300 – 600. The most affluent period is noted to have occurred during the years 500 – 700. And at its peak, this site would have supported over 6,000 people.
In the late 5th and early 6th century, Palenque suffered two major defeats, with the forces of Calakmul sacking the city. Shortly after, Palenque’s greatest ruler K’inich Janaab’ Pakal, also known as Pakal the Great, came to power at the age of 12. During his 80 year rein a lot of the structures you see today were either rebuilt, constructed or put into plan. Following his rein, his two succeeding sons and grandson, completed the work and the family legacy.
In 711 AD Palenque suffered a significant loss at hands of the nearby Tonina group. This resulted in the the capture of Kan Joy Chitam II, who was the current ruler at the time. This left the kingdom without a ruler for 10 years, with Tonina becoming a commanding force within the region. By the mid 8th century all major construction had ceased and with ongoing warfare the population was in major decline. By the 9th century the city had become all but abandoned.
What Makes the Palenque Ruins Unique
Palenque received it’s name by Father Pedro Lorenzo de la Nada, who in 1567 made the first published account of the city. In Spanish, Palenque means fortified place. However, and perhaps more beautiful the Mayan name is Lamkamha. This translates as the place of the great waters.
In comparison to other Maya sites such as Chichen Itza, Calakmul and Copan, Palenque is considered a medium size site.
According to the UNESCO website the total area of the archaeological site is 1780 hectares, with 1,400 buildings recorded. However, only about 10% of the Palenque ruins have been excavated and restored the rest are hidden under thick jungle. This fact alone, is one of the things that we found most unique about the Palenque ruins.
The Palenque ruins are best known, for their architectural detail, intricate stucco and elaborate glyphs. It’s for this reason, that they are one of the most studied Mesoamerican sites. This has ultimately led to a detailed history of the site and surrounding area. As well as the discovery of two incredible archaeological finds, Pakal’s Tomb and more recently the Red Queen.
How to Get To Palenque Ruins From Palenque Town
The Palenque ruins are just 9km from downtown Palenque, so getting to the ruins is relatively easy. And if you’re taking any form of motorised transport it takes just over 15 minutes to get there. But in fact, there are several options, which we explain in more detail below.
Self-Drive to Palenque Ruins
If you have your own vehicle then its a simple drive. From the ADO station you need to take the 199 south out of town towards Ocosingo. At the first roundabout take the first exit onto Carr. Zona Arqueológica Palenque. Follow this all the way to the car park.
Note: To find out about the gates and entry tickets continue reading below.
Wave Down a Taxi
Taxis are everywhere, and this is an easy option if you’re not watching the travel budget too closely!
So you can either pick one up around town, or get your accommodation to help arrange a taxi. We were quoted 200 MXN pesos for a taxi each way. Therefore if you’re travelling in a group of four this could be an economical option.
For the return trip back, you’ll find a taxi where you were dropped off, or at the Museum if you are visiting here after the ruins.
Collective – Shared Transport
Colectivos run between the ADO bus station and the archaeological site every 15 to 30 minutes. The easiest pick up point in town is directly in front of the ADO station. It’s on the roundabout where there is a small pickup bay, look for the van displaying RUINAS in its front window. The cost was 25 MXN per person.
For the return you can hop on where you hoped off. Or wave one down outside the museum if you are visiting there after the ruins.
This was how we went to the ruins. It cost us 100 pesos as a family of four and it was super easy and super awesome.
Ride a Bike – Comes with a Disclaimer
We were also really impressed by the bike tracks to the Palenque ruins. Unfortunately, we absolutely could not find any sign of bike rental outlets in Palenque.
Given that the site is so close to town, it would only take 30 minutes to cycle there from the ADO station. But perhaps if you were eager to explore this option further, we would recommend asking your accommodation.
Entry and Cost for Palenque Ruins
What ever transport you do decide to take, you’ll need to follow the same procedure upon entering the National park and Archaeological site.
First you’ll stop at the park office to pay both the National Park entrance and the Archaeological fee. This is right next to the Museum and around 1.5 km from the upper car park and Palenque ruins main entrance.
At the first counter you pay 105 MXN pesos per person for the National park entrance fee. And then at a second counter 90 MXN pesos per person for the Archaeological fee. We enjoyed the fact that kids under 13 were free.
If you are visiting by taxi or collective, they will wait here while you pay both fees, then take you up the remainder of the way to the entrance.
🏛 Note: The fee to the Palenque ruins also includes entrance to the museum. So remember to keep hold of your tickets.
Opening Hours & Best Time to Visit Palenque Ruins
The Palenque ruins are open 7 days a week from 8am – 5pm, but last entry is at 4pm.
We recommend arriving as early as possible, avoiding the busier time of the day and heat. Alternatively later in the day for the same reasons. But it is a big site and you don’t want to feel rushed at the end of the day. Read below for more information on how long you’ll need to visit the site and ruins.
The best time of the year to visit Palenque ruins is from November through to March. This is the dry season when temperatures are a little cooler, with less chance of rain. But the ruins are in a rain forest, so even at that time of year expect it to be hot and humid, especially if you are not used to this kind of environment.
We visited at the start of May and we avoided the rain, but it was humid and the temperature was averaging 35oc.
How Long Do You Need to Visit Palenque Ruins
This is a bit of a loaded question as it will depend on your time and interests. We really do love to explore however, we are also travelling with a 10 and 8 year old, who tend to have a limited time frame.
Interestingly, we thought we would spend around two hours exploring the ruins. However, we actually ended up staying five hours!
Two hours is probably adequate for most travellers, if you follow our below walking tour and don’t linger too long at any one site. But as I said at the beginning, Palenque quickly became a favourite, so we decided to meander, linger and enjoy!
There is also plenty of shade during the last third of the site. You’ll note on our tour, that after the main ruins, the path leads through a jungle walk, past a river and waterfall, back to the museum. What’s more there are places to sit and relax, so if you have the time, we recommend a gentle pace.
Free Printable Map for Self-Guided Tour of Palenque Ruins
🗺 Download our free map of Palenque ruins that we created just for your self-guided tour. Keep it on your phone, or print it for your walk.
📍 And don’t forget the second page which gives you a step by step guide of how to navigate between the key sights at Palenque ruins.
👆 Tap this link to download… no need to sign-up, no strings attached. Just a pretty little map, created by us with love… especially for you! xxx
Beginning the Self-Guided Tour of Palenque Ruins
To manage expectations, think of our guide or self-guided tour of Palenque ruins, as one for the common visitor… We are travellers, not historians or archaeologists, so if you’re looking for an in depth tour of the Palenque ruins, then best to get yourself a local guide. They have the knowledge and know all those minute details that only locals can provide.
The following sites on our self-guided walking tour, are listed in order of which you will see them. Firstly, we provide a little bit of information on each site. Then under the Walking Tour Directions, we provide you a detailed explanation on how to get from one site to the next.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
Starting from the car park, make your way to the main entrance where you need to show your entry tickets. From here it’s a short walk through to the first sites.
#1 Temple XII, Temple of the Skulls
The Temple of the Skulls is the first structure you come to upon entering the site. The building name is based on a section of stucco found at the base of one of its pillars, which can’t be see from below. It depicts what is believed to be a rabbit skull.
Surveys and excavations have shown, that two other vaulted structures can be found under the temple of the skulls, one on top of the other. As with other Maya constructions the temple of the skulls was built on top of these.
A grave within one of the structures below has been exhumed, where a large amount of jade pieces were uncovered.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
As you enter the Palenque archaeology site, the first thing you’ll see are a long stretch of ruins. These cannot be climbed, and they are the first three sites mentioned here. They all share the same base structure, but are in fact three seperate sites. Use the map for reference.
The first on your right is (#1) The Temple of Skulls.
#2 Temple XIII, Tomb of the Red Queen
Temple XIII, is also known as the Tomb of the Red Queen (and in Spanish, Reina Roja) due to the burial chamber found within the structure in 1994.
The Red Queen was discovered in her sarcophagus, quite by accident by a Mexican archaeologist. The team was contracted to carry out routine work, and by chance uncovered a hidden door that lead to her burial chamber.
Inside the tomb, numerous offerings were found, such as shells, pearls, jade ornaments, obsidian blades and others. Also two sets of human remains, believed to be the personal servants of the Red Queen, lay beside the sarcophagus.
The Red Queen herself was found within a stone sarcophagus in the center of the chamber. When opened, she was found with a jade head mask and furnished with necklaces, bracelets, anklets and obsidian. But most significant to this find, was the red powder found covering the tomb and within the sarcophagus. This red powder was cinnabar, and the act of adding this to burial chambers, was a practice frequently carried out in Maya burials.
I recommend, visitors take note of this temple, as there is a great display at the museum explaining the Red Queen in more detail. In fact, it was one of my favourite takeaways from the Palenque ruins.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
To the left of the Temple of Skulls but sharing the same base structure, is Temple XIII otherwise known as the (#2) Tomb of the Red Queen.
#3 Temple of the Inscriptions
This is probably the most well known site within Palenque, for a couple of reasons.
The first reason is related to the three large inscription panels found at the top of the temple platform. What makes these inscription panels most significant, is their detailed Mayan glyphs. Not to mention, the fact that these panels are one of the two largest known to exist. From these glyphs, experts have deciphered and recorded around 180 years of the city’s history.
Secondly, the Temple of the Inscriptions is also the Tomb of Palenque’s greatest ruler K’inich Janaab’ Pakal. This was discovered in 1952 by archaeologist Alberto Ruz Lhuillier. The tomb and huge sarcophagus, were discovered along with ornate carvings, detailed stucco work and holding various ornaments and offerings.
To find out more and to see a scaled reconstruction of the tomb, visit the Palenque museum.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
At the end of this same row of structures you will come to the largest of the three which is (#3) Temple of the Inscriptions.
#4 The Palace
The palace is the largest structure within Palenque and is centrally located within the site. Over four centuries the palace was constructed, altered and added to. Finally today, the base structure that you see measures 97×73 metres with a height of 10 metres. Upon which various buildings are built, around internal courtyards either separate, connected or interconnected.
The most noticeable of the Palace’s building is the 25 metre, four story Observation Tower. This important structure, stands atop of the base building and is easily seen from various points within the site.
Essentially, the Palace was used as a royal residence and contained all that its elite rulers required. From their living quarters, court, entertainment areas, through to their ceremonial requirements. It also housed their personal servants, as well as guest quarters for visiting nobles.
The Palace also had several lavatories, baths and saunas. The water supply came from a detailed aqueduct system, whereby water was diverted from the Otulum River under the Palace.
Note: At the time of our visit the Palace was undergoing major works, so walking access was limited to around the base only.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
To the left of Pakal’s tomb is (#4) The Palace which is the largest building in the Palenque ruins. At this point, we recommend circumnavigating the Palace to see it from each side. Pause in front of the northern steps of the Palace. This point provides a great view into the upper sections, which had some significant work being carried out when we visited.
#5 Temple of the Sun
The Temple of the Sun is one of three major structures found within a smaller open square. This set of temples is known as the Cross group, with the Temple of the Cross, and also the adjacently positioned Temple of the Foliated Cross.
These temples were built by K’an Bahlam II, upon his succession to the throne after his father Pakal the Great. Interestingly, there are tablets within each of the Cross Group buildings which depict various scenes of Bahlam’s life. The three temples were constructed to honour Palenque’s three deities or gods, known simply as G1, G2 and G3.
Upon climbing the steps of the Temple of the Sun, on the back wall of the central chamber look for the detailed carved stucco panel. The central image of this panel is a shield, with the image of G3 and two crossed spears, sitting on top of an altar.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
Walking between the Temple of the Inscriptions on your right and the Palace on your left. Follow the path behind the palace, over a bridge spanning a section of the old Aqueduct, before turning right. From here follow the path up a small set of stone steps. This path leads to a smaller square, with the first building on your left (#5) The Temple of the Sun.
#6 Temple of the Cross
The Temple of the Cross is the largest of the temples in this area. And also one of the best view points in Palenque ruins, with amazing views over the Temple of the Sun and across to the Palace.
One of the main tablets found within the Temple of the Cross shows another scene from Bahlam’s life. At the centre is a world tree and above a quetzal bird, on the right is Bahlam, and to the left is Pakal. This is said to represent Bahlam receiving his fathers blessing from the underworld, to ascend to the throne.
Note: At the time of our visit the Temple of the Foliated Cross was under cover, undergoing major reconstructive work.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
After visiting the Temple of the Sun, continue on to the (#6) the Temple of the Cross. It’s the big one – you can’t miss it!
#7 Ball Court
The Ball Court is one of the oldest sites in the Palenque ruins, dating back to around AD 500. It’s smaller than most other Maya ruins, that we have personally visited. In terms of size, it’s only 22 metres in length.
It lies in a north to south direction, through which you can walk, on your way to the Northern group.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
After returning down the steps from climbing the Temple of the Cross, follow the path to the right. Keep the Temple of the Cross on your right and the Temple of the Sun on your left. The path heads north past the smaller Temple XIV on the left. Follow it down a small set of stairs, towards the eastern side of the palace and Aqueduct, then turn right.
Continue along the path, in a north direction, along the eastern side of the palace, until the Ball Court is in sight. Then drop down a set of steps and walk through the ball court.
#8 Temple of the Count and the North Group
The ruins labelled as the North Group, are a set of five buildings, set along one base relief with their entrances facing south. They are all of varying heights and sizes, which is due to their varying dates of construction.
Seperate from the North Group and on the western side of this complex, is the Temple of the Count. It’s a free standing, five tiered pyramid, which was named after Jean-Frédéric Waldeck. And his story is something of a tall tale.
Very briefly, in 1832 Waldeck set up camp in Palenque, and apparently spent nearly two years living inside this very temple. He had the tendency to tell embellished accounts of his own life, as well as in his drawn depictions of his travels. For example, he added elephants to his drawings from the Temple of Inscriptions, thus incorrectly suggesting connections between the Maya people and Asia. But incredibly, the (self-proclaimed) Count Waldeck’s story, is an elaborate web of unverified facts worth reading, if you have a few minutes.
Inside the Temple of the Count, there was a tomb within the temple. However it is unknown who this belonged to, and was unfortunately ransacked long before it was found by archaeologists.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
Walking through the centre of the Ball Court, towards the next set of ruins. This is the (#8) North Group and on the left, partially hidden by the large Ceiba tree, is the Temple of the Count.
#9 Cascades
The following section of the site crosses over the Otulum stream then loosely follows it down the valley. Partway down you will come to a slightly steeper section, where the path zig zags down an old waterfall.
Towards the bottom of this you will come to a platform that looks out onto the current waterfall and cascade. There is no swimming allowed in the river, so despite the humidity you won’t be able to have that dip that you are so longing for. It’s fun to think of an ancient Maya civilisation enjoying the river in whichever context it is, that they might.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
Leaving the North Group, follow the track east, past the new toilet block on the left. Cross the river via a stone bridge and enter the jungle walk.
Follow the track, past a junction which veers to the right and is labelled Group C. This section is shown on the site maps, however at the time of our visit the path and area wasn’t open to the public. Continue along the path which starts to zig zag down towards the (#9) Cascades and the viewing platform.
#10 Complex B
At the bottom of the waterfalls and as you enter Complex B, you will pass the steam bath on your left, between the path and the river. This group of five buildings were residential houses, surrounding a three level courtyard. Several of the houses also contained tombs, with small offerings found within them.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
(#10) Complex B is further along the path, just below the Cascades.
#11 Complex of the Bats
Complex of the Bats, is another residential group of ruins set between Otulum Stream and Bat Stream. As with Complex B, tombs have been found underneath some of the rooms. Various pieces of pottery, stone tools, grinding stones, pestles, mortars and other items associated with daily life, were found in and around the site.
If you venture off the path and around the complex, look into some of the rooms and passageways and you’ll most likely find out from where its name is derived.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
Continuing down the jungle track from Complex B, is the (#11) Complex of Bats. Take a walk around the ruins here before moving on. The following site is optional, but be sure to read the walking directions as they continue towards the exit.
#12 Complexes I & II (Optional)
Another set of large residential buildings. Set on a tiered slop with large established trees scattered throughout, surrounded by forest but also having some nice open clearings within the canopy.
These are a little off the main track, but well worth a look if you have time.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
After the Complex of the Bats, the path veers down towards the river. Cross the swing bridge before turning right and following the river downstream.
A little past the bridge, there’s a viewing platform on the right suspended slightly over the river. But directly opposite the platform is a small path that leads to (#12) Complexes I & II.
This section is optional. So if you’re all ruined out, then continue on the main path downstream. However, if you want more then follow the path up the hill towards Complexes I & II. It continues to wind up for some time, but do not follow the steep staircase up, as this leads back up to (#8) North Group.
Note: that you will return back down this path to leave.
#13 The Exit or Alternative Entrance
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
After the Complexes I & II, turn back and follow the same path back to the viewing platform. From here turn left and follow the path downstream towards the exit and end of our tour.
#14 Palenque Museum
The entry into the museum is included in your entry ticket and we highly recommend a visit. Not to mention, it’s a nice place to cool off, after a couple of hours spent in the heat and humidity.
The exhibits are well set out, with information provided in both Spanish and English. The exhibits of Pakal’s and the Red Queen’s Tombs, are definitely worth you taking the extra 30 minutes.
After spending several hours at the Palenque ruins, we found the museum a great place to pick up some extra knowledge, and to fill in a couple of gaps.
🚶Walking Tour Directions:
At the jungle exit, turn right onto the main road. Less than 500 metres down the road on the left, is the museum and ticket office.
Extra Things to Know & Tips for Visiting Palenque Ruins
- During our visit some areas had restricted access. Therefore we were not able to see the southern Acropolis set of structures XIX, XX, XXI or XVI. Also the path leading to Group C on the walk down to the Cascades was roped off.
- Other sites that were under reconstruction work – Temple of the Foliated Cross and the Palace. These had tarpaulins and scaffolding erected, and access was closed off to the public.
- Pack snacks and plenty of water. There are one or two small food outlets in the top carpark, but it’s definitely worth bringing your own.
- Bring a torch if you’re travelling with one. There are a couple of areas where it can come in handy, but it’s not essential.
- This walking tour also works in reverse – start at the lower entrance and walk up. If you’re arriving midday or later, this might be a good option. Start with the cooler jungle walk then end at the main sites later in the afternoon. Thereby avoiding the midday heat, with the prospect of having fewer people at the big sites.
Guide & Tour Options for Palenque Ruins
A guide can be arranged at the Palenque ruins for tours in and around the surrounding jungle. As we mentioned earlier, only 10% of the ruins have been excavated. Therefore a jungle tour, means you can walk through and experience the unexcavated ruins.
We did a one hour guided walk, which cost a total of $700 MXN. It was completely unplanned, on arrival we got swept up in the moment and agreed with a guide to tour the jungle before entering the Palenque park ruins.
The guide was great, explaining a lot about the various plants and trees. He also pointed out several birds including Toucans and Humming birds and showed us several unexcavated ruins, as well as a spring bubbling out of the ground.
A local guide can also be arranged for tours of the Palenque ruins and sites. We had someone at the park entrance hop on our collective and offer their services. Then there are a group of guides at the ticket office, or at the final entrance into the site. We were also approched while wandering around the site.
If you’re on a tight schedule or prefer an A to Z type of tour, then there are several great options for you to pick from. As you can see from the below, some are private tours, and we’ve also included an option departing from San Cristobal.
Are the Palenque Ruins Worth Visiting?
Most definitely, yes, yes and yes! In fact the area around Palenque is worth you taking several days to explore, even a week if you can.
The ruins themselves are incredible, and when you consider the various waterfalls in the area, the Lacandon forest, Yaxchilan and Bonampak, suddenly you realise you just HAVE to go to Palenque.
If you want to read more guides about the Palenque ruins before your visit, we recommend reading from the following websites. We found them helpful in creating this self-guided tour to Palenque.
More Guides on Palenque Town
If you enjoyed this guide to the Palenque ruins, then you might also like to check our other posts for your itinerary and visit to Palenque.
- Things to do in Palenque (post coming soon)
- How to visit Roberto Barrios waterfalls (post coming soon)
- Visiting Yaxchilan and Bonampak ruins (post coming soon)
And don’t forget to bookmark or pin this post on how to visit Palenque Ruins without a guide!
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